Disteghil Sar or Distaghil Sar ( ur, ) is the highest mountain in the
Shimshal Valley, part of the
Karakoram
The Karakoram is a mountain range in Kashmir region spanning the borders of Pakistan, China, and India, with the northwest extremity of the range extending to Afghanistan and Tajikistan. Most of the Karakoram mountain range falls under the ...
mountain range
A mountain range or hill range is a series of mountains or hills arranged in a line and connected by high ground. A mountain system or mountain belt is a group of mountain ranges with similarity in form, structure, and alignment that have arise ...
in
Gilgit-Baltistan
Gilgit-Baltistan (; ), formerly known as the Northern Areas, is a region administered by Pakistan as an administrative territory, and constituting the northern portion of the larger Kashmir region which has been the subject of a dispute bet ...
,
Pakistan
Pakistan ( ur, ), officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan ( ur, , label=none), is a country in South Asia. It is the world's List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of almost 24 ...
. It is the
19th-highest mountain on Earth and the 7th-highest in Pakistan. ''Disteghil sar'' is a
Wakhi language
Wakhi (Wakhi: /В̌aхi, ) is an Indo-European language in the Eastern Iranian branch of the language family spoken today in Wakhan District, Northern Afghanistan and also in Tajikistan, Northern Pakistan and China.
Classification and distribut ...
word suggested by the
Wakhi people
The Wakhi people ( ur, ; russian: Ваханцы; ), also locally referred to as the Wokhik (), are an Iranian peoples, Iranian ethnic group native to Central Asia, Central and South Asia. They are found in Afghanistan, Tajikistan, Pakistan and ...
of Shimshal,
meaning "above the inner ranch." The mountain has a top ridge above 7,400 meters elevation, with three distinct summits: Northwest, 7885 m; Central, 7760 m; and Southeast, 7696m or 7535m.
Climbing history
Distaghil Sar was first climbed in 1960 by Günther Stärker and
Diether Marchart of an
Austria
Austria, , bar, Östareich officially the Republic of Austria, is a country in the southern part of Central Europe, lying in the Eastern Alps. It is a federation of nine states, one of which is the capital, Vienna, the most populous ...
n expedition led by Wolfgang Stefan. The expedition climbed the western part of the south face and continued over the southwest ridge to the highest summit. Three years earlier, in 1957, an English expedition had attempted to climb the mountain from the south and the west, but failed due to bad weather. Likewise, weather foiled a 1959 Swiss attempt over the southeast ridge.
The highest, western summit has been scaled twice since in 1980 and 1982 over the original route. Two attempts over the daunting north face, in 1988 and 1998, were unsuccessful. The eastern summit was first climbed in 1980 by a Polish expedition over the east face, and was reascended in 1983.
See also
*
List of mountains in Pakistan
Pakistan is home to 108 peaks above 7,000 metres and 4555 above 6,000 m. There is no count of the peaks above 5,000 and 4,000 m. Five of the 14 highest independent peaks in the world (the eight-thousanders) are in Pakistan (four of which lie in ...
*
Highest Mountains of the World
References
Sources
Hohe Siebentausender(in German)
The Himalayan Index
Seven-thousanders of the Karakoram
Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan
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